By David Koehler
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The box is 4.5" x 3" x 2.5" and light weight at 281.2 grams. It is made from
some tough, high tech plastic which gave me pause but a couple of drop tests
proved otherwise. Yes, you can kill it with a hammer, but it will stand up just
fine to everyday normal use.
The terminal connection
section is removable which
is nice if you are prone to
carrying spares. Instead of
having to remove all the
wires you just remove 2
screws and plug in the
spare controller. If you have
two cars you can purchase
an extra terminal block and
just move the controller
from car to car. This
removable feature is also a
time saver when welding on
the car.
There is a row of indicator
lights that serve to bench
test all your connections and
your software setup. The left
hand section of lights is for
the input wiring. As an
example, when you push
down your throttle switch the
XO indicator lights up.
Different lights indicate the
reset button and/or purge
being activated.
The lights on the right will indicate the activation and pulsing of each stage
that is preprogrammed. This light array is especially handy for your initial
learning curve and verifying that your circuits are all working as planned
once you have the procedure down.
On the back is the Off/Run switch. The Term position is ignored for our
use. The interface cable plugs into port 2 and is connected to the serial
port of your computer. If you have a new computer, it may not have a
serial port but does have USB ports. In that situation a serial to USB
adapter cable is required. The box requires a 2 amp fuse on the 12 volt
input for protection and is included in the complete package. 16 volts
systems are good to go also. There are two holes in the base for
mounting purposes. You will need relays to fire the solenoids as you
cannot direct wire the solenoids to the box.
THE HARDWARE
Review of Racing Instrumentation's  Nitrous PROgressive Controller
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